A first shot...

...from Dolce and Gabbana's first ever Couture show, Alta Moda.


The length of time and amount of craftsmanship that has gone into this much anticipated collection has placed it in a league inhabited by few events in fashion history, before it even défiléd.


Now the first images are emerging of the collection- held this morning- and they promise a bountiful paradise of the kind of couture I used to dream existed during the reigns of the great talents of couture lore... Christobal Balenciaga's other-worldly draping, Elsa Schiaparelli's sartorial explorations of surrealism...


With this showstopping offering, Dolce and Gabbana have arguably transcended the current precedent set for couture houses, offering a level of quality and consideration matched only by the pure and totally pleasurable escapism it inspires in the viewer.


I need to see more of this, now.


Bravo.

Shockingly Good- James Long Mens and Womenswear

Long first trapped my notice having been awarded the TopShop Emerging Talent award at London Fashion Week, February 2012...

The man himself has long (haha) been producing an interesting and original line of knit and menswear for a while now and  I think he deserves the recognition he has gained. 

Having completed his Menswear and Accessories training at the Royal College of Art, the sky is now the limit for Mr Long. 


I recently had the pleasure to have a chat with the man himself at Paris Fashion Week London Menswear Showrooms in July 2012. Post-discourse, I was left yet more with the impression that the pieces this guy creates, and his design ethic, is something to experience with joy. 

Here are a few of the star-dazzled exerpts that I remember from our conversation: (image credit: Sarah T Skinner...)

Kat: What inspires you as a designer?

James Long: I have been interested in the mentality brought alive by the New York set in the 70s, people like Patti Smith and complementarily, Robert Mapplethorpe, for a while now. The idea of DIY, no reservations, just a singular, intense and quite innocent exploration of art and design. The freedom is something I try to re-create at my design house.

Kat: You began graduate life as a mens and knitwear designer. What first encouraged your forays into womenswear?

JL: Since my first collections came out I received a lot of good attention for the pieces I produced, which were primarily for men. As womenswear forms such a huge and important majority of the fashion world, however, it didn't take me long before I started listening to the clamours of female fans also looking to wear a bit of Long. So I slightly adapted some of the more popular menswear pieces for girls and this is where it's led me.

Kat: How important is it to come to Paris to showcase your designs?

JL: Paris is really important for all new designers like me. We aren't so established as to attract   buyers specifically to London to see us so this is one of the unique ways in which we can broadcast ourselves to a wider audience. It's also a great way to see the city!

With these thoughts in mind, I present to you a small selection of Long's latest link in a rapidly-growing chain of great ideas. Particularly check out this collection's signature cut of short, with an innovative and gorgeous pleated front which makes me reflect on origami and the samurai.

Designer Profile: Shaun Samson

This young designer struck me at Paris Fashion Week Showrooms for a mix of his vision, and his personal philosophy... 


Since being picked up with MAN during SS12, the young San Diego native has gone from strength to strength, eventually bringing him to the Paris Showcase where we crossed paths. Samson was there to tout trade and interest from the key Parisian market-  building on the interest shown to his previous collection, when stockists such as Selfridges, Joyce, Opening Ceremony, Trading Museum and Comme des Garcons Japan decided to get a piece of the action.


The crux of what it is that Samson seeks to create has been described as ‘Men’s Modern Street Wear.’ Something wearable, effortless and special, this house speciality mix has been well translated into his latest collection for SS13, which makes use of his signature needlepunch technique: a way of marrying together vastly different textures to an effect which makes the two fabrics seemingly grow out of each other...

Felting is something that Samson currently has a lot of time for. He coordinates his plans for total couture domination from his studio in London, and this young designer has plenty of wind in his sails for the moment due to the support he receives from many areas.
As a result of this, the young maestro will stick with his own label for the time being; and is soon to move onto yet bigger and better things.

Check out his site here

Press Link here 

And his soundcloud (which by the way, is pretty rockin') here

;)

Paris' Hidden Vintage Treasures

Paris is a city where you'd expect to find a lot of beautiful clothes... but for the discerning (and sometimes value-concerned) fashionista, the question of what remains when you step away from the delights of luxury stores on the Champs Elysees or high street hits on Rue de Rivoli can seem pretty daunting if you don't know where to look.

Luckily, as a lover of all things vintage who happens to have made Paris her home, I have made it my mission to scout a few of the best vintage stores around the capital for the perusal of the online community. In short the upshot is, if you're in Paris don't miss THESE...

1. TILT Vintage, 7 Rue de Rivoli, Paris

Looks can be deceiving- this shop may seem small from the vantage point of the Hotel de Ville across the road, but step inside and you will discover that it is bursting with fresh and desirable vintage pieces worthy of London's Brick Lane or Los Angeles' Rosebowl. 

 Providing all the classics such as fur coats and wool jumpers, as well as some funked-out accessories (like these trippy sunglasses) Tilt will not disappoint you (and probably won't break the bank neither).

The view from the back of the shop ;)

2. Richie's Vintage
56 rue Jules Vallès, Marche Aux Puces, 93400 Saint Ouen

This delightful store can be found hidden deep within the legendary March aux Puces de St. Ouen, in the North of Paris (19th Arrondissement, Metro Porte de Clignancourt). A rich and vibrant collection of international vintage, you can find a great selection from wonderful everyday bargains to that extra special evening something (see the bodice below which I had great trouble resisting)..... 

Monsieur Richie himself...!:)

3. Lina from Paris...rue Jules Vallès, Porte de Clignancourt, Paris

Facing Richie's but casting a completely different vibe to it's neighbour, this charming brocante-style vintage stall is really one of the highlights of the flea-market.
In the ten minutes I spent outside, I found Rykiel Homme, unique bijoux, felt hats garnished with old feathers, ball gowns worthy of Belle and authentic military wear, to name but a few things:)
Featuring a range of beautiful and unique clothes on aloof and characterful mannequins, this stall will reveal more to you the deeper you dig.

The proprietor, Lina, adds to the experience too...her unique look provides a refreshing balm to the typically tired Chic Parisians you tend to see stalking the streets of the capital...

Watchful mannequins preside over the vintage treasures.....

A dress worthy of the débuantes of the 20's... If I can't find an occasion to wear this in the next few months, I will consider myself a failure...:)

You wanna doctor's bag? Medicine not obligatory...



4. Les Merveilles de Babellou
Marché Paul Bert dans Le Marché aux Puces de St.Ouen, Stand 13, Alleé 1 et Stand 77, Alleé 6...

Step inside this well presented chest of top quality vintage treasures, ranging from Yves Saint Laurent, to Chanel, to Dior, and you will not be disappointed.
Evocative of a lost golden age of couture, the delights of Babellou will have you dreaming back to a time when Dior's New Look reigned supreme and sophistication could be found on every Parisian street.
Although nowadays the story is not so different, with specimens such as these on offer you could really create a magic wardrobe (provided you have the time and money.) As expected for true vintage pieces, these do not come cheap but as long-term investments they are worth it (though I think you'll need good luck in trying to choose...)

Quel beau chapeau!

....so with these in mind, happy vintage searching next time you're in Paris ;)

teatum jones is lovely

A few of you may have heard of the designer duo Teatum Jones, who with their exquisitely feminine and covetably accessible garments are making big waves all across the fashion pond. I had the occasion to chat with them in more detail about their design history and ambitions during their exhibition at London Fashion Week, the details of which I'll share with you here... 

Teatum Jones made their acquaintance through a mutual adminartion for escapism. This idea underpins their work, and their new collection, Sometimes it Snows In April, pays homage to this complex dynamism through the idea of an opposition between apparent harmony and inherent disatisfaction. The sugary colours and seemingly effortless fluid lines of the collection attach to this idea, with it's disparity between reality and what seems to be apparent.

This strong concept, in tandem with the energy brough to the brand by its two creators, means that the company has gone from strength to strength in a very short time. Indeed this is only the duo's second full collection.


"We are fascinated by human behaviour and exchanges and find ourselves compelled to seek out beauty and refinement in what is ordinarily considered sinister or dark.” Such a catching idea is sure to keep many fashion fans coming back for more and more each season.

Chacun a son goût...

Cleo B

Cleo B is a shoe designer who dances a funky two step on the narrow edge between mass commercial appeal and original, quality design. The resulting SS12 collection, entitled 'It's Like That' will surely cause widespread hype and credit card crimes a-plenty.

Hailing from Cheshire in the UK, Cleo B is one of the wave of fresh new British designers who will undoubtedly be big news in future.


Cleo began her professional study at Cordwainers College, before going on to train at the Salvatore Ferragamo design studio in Florence. She has also had experience at Nicholas Kirkwood, Georgina Goodman and L.K. Bennett, and her own brand has been up and running since 2008. 

'It's Like That' is a fresh fusion of the classic ideas of the Eighties with a contemporary and refined modernity that leaves little to be desired.

The Golden Age of Hip Hop provides a fresh and beautiful starting point for the various shoes which come in the form of boots, wedges, flat sandals and many more.

From where I'm standing this is the best the Eighties have ever looked.
  
http://www.cleob.com/

Meet PaperSelf

PaperSelf, designed by London-based papermeister ChunWei Liao, was one of the unexpected surprises of London Fashion Week.

Hiding in the basement section of the exhibitors space, the dedicated team of five spent the entirity of London Fashion Week applying their funky eyelashes to person after person- and they literally kept on coming!

Superhuman dedication aside, it might be time to take a closer look at the reason why their stall was so popular...

The concept behind PaperSelf comes in the form of beautiful,affordable fake eyelashes for all.

The main collection is inspired by a chinese symbols, both physical and abstract, each of which represent something both traditional and beautiful.

These two are known as 'Peonies' and 'Small Peacock'.

The designs are created by being lazer cut. In this way the dainty designs of Liao can be instantly captured in a sustainable and easy-to-wear format.

The packaging in which they appear is also completely gorgeous:

Like music? Another recent collaboration between PaperSelf has come with the Broken Hearts, a London-based DJ duo whose output has been dubbed 'Under the Sea'.

Retailing for around £10.50 for the small designs, and £12.50 for the bigger offerings, these are an affordable and chic way to make a fashion statement. The best thing of all, they feel so light it is hardly as if they're being worn:) A beautiful advantage :)

www.paperself.com

(Images courtesy of Paperself).