Dior Secret Garden, Versailles

In light of Paris Fashion Week's recent couture statement from the House of Dior, courtesy of Raf Simons, I re-invite you to view this Dior promo video with a post-show perspective :) 


Consequently I will be heading here Friday to see Beethoven's 9th in time to celebrate the 14th July. 


Pics à suivre.

Designer Profile: Shaun Samson

This young designer struck me at Paris Fashion Week Showrooms for a mix of his vision, and his personal philosophy... 


Since being picked up with MAN during SS12, the young San Diego native has gone from strength to strength, eventually bringing him to the Paris Showcase where we crossed paths. Samson was there to tout trade and interest from the key Parisian market-  building on the interest shown to his previous collection, when stockists such as Selfridges, Joyce, Opening Ceremony, Trading Museum and Comme des Garcons Japan decided to get a piece of the action.


The crux of what it is that Samson seeks to create has been described as ‘Men’s Modern Street Wear.’ Something wearable, effortless and special, this house speciality mix has been well translated into his latest collection for SS13, which makes use of his signature needlepunch technique: a way of marrying together vastly different textures to an effect which makes the two fabrics seemingly grow out of each other...

Felting is something that Samson currently has a lot of time for. He coordinates his plans for total couture domination from his studio in London, and this young designer has plenty of wind in his sails for the moment due to the support he receives from many areas.
As a result of this, the young maestro will stick with his own label for the time being; and is soon to move onto yet bigger and better things.

Check out his site here

Press Link here 

And his soundcloud (which by the way, is pretty rockin') here

;)

Couture Roundup: Raf Simons' First Turn as Dior Creative Director

The wait ended on Tuesday at 14h30. The Fashion world literally lined up to attend what was surely one of the most-anticipated creative hookups in years; prodigious designer Raf Simons' premier collection as Head of the House of Dior, which manifested itself in the form of his SS13 Haute Couture presentation in Paris this week.

The front row was almost as glittery as the creative offerings themselves; from actresses like Marion Cotillard and Jennifer Lawrence, to an array of faces normally confined to the other side of the catwalk curtain- we saw Marc Jacobs, skirted and booted, Donatella Versace and her junior, Allegra and Haider Ackerman, modern titans who had come to witness the first fruits of the relationship begun between the stately House of Dior and a smart, understated and visionary Belgian.

The collection was presented in truly sumptuous house style, played out across three rooms filled with a million colour grouped flowers.
This dramatic backdrop was maybe the only gesture that made made a viewer think directly of the 'old days'- the flowers displaying a level of decadence that the Dior chief's controversial predecessor might well have approved of.

Against this colourful background, the collection came out. And such is the dissidence between this new designer's collection and previous offerings chez Dior, that at first it was hard to adjust- leaving many, including myself, feeling confused at first glance.

But Galliano Syndrome- that is, a dependence on the glitz of coquettish frou frou- is just something that we have been conditioned to expect after a decade of seasons presided over by the ex-Dior head.  As such, to appreciate the new direction of the label, it is essential to approach Simon's efforts with an open mind.

As soon as you do this, everything changes. Simons has thrown down the gauntlet with this first showcase, in more ways than one. Dior's stock pastel colours, for example, took a backseat to some of the primary hues which marked one of the two most distinctive features of this collection. Lemony, structured, masterful dresses, were intermixed with bold pieces in vermillion and cerulean as well as ample, ample black and printed, multishade silk. There were light colours- but despite this inclusion the froth and frivolity seen in previous Dior collections was notably subdued in favour of a more distinctive, elegant and minimalist silhouette of a modern woman... one that will not have disappointed fans of Simon's previous output, renowned for these features.

The wish to draw a line under the work of his controversial predecessor didn't stop at cut. Simons' inclusion of a unique texture resembling cut wool or even balled tissue paper reflects the direction this designer wishes to take in his new role. To fill the gaping legacy left by Galliano is no mean feat for even the most experienced of couturiers, and what Simons does through the usage of this kind of fabric technology is to set out his mission statement: unafraid to mould the brand to reflect the personal, innovative and highly developed style which has already won him so many admirers, and probably his new seat at the head of this house.

The only concern I'd take away from this otherwise well-executed new chapter in Dior's history is that we might start to see a monopolisation of Simons' time as the head of this label, which could divert him away from his original creations with his eponymous line. If we're really lucky, Raf will follow front-row attendee Marc Jacobs in continuing to successfully produce his own line alongside his responsabilities at Dior. We'll see.

Kat Rutherford in Paris.

colette festival 2012

The Colette Festival 2012, which unrolled in the Jardin de Tuileries last weekend, was an interesting showcase of the brands which have aided Colette's ascension to superconceptstore over the past 15 years.

Big brands like the Impossible Project mixed with shoot-the-duck games and music label giveaways, all creating a huge, harmonious melange of the French, middle class equivalent of a state fair (see well-dressed mamans with petit-bateau clad enfants in tow everywhere, mixed with trend-conscious French hipsters.) 

Eye-opening.

images via laurentdubois.com

christian louboutin HAS SOMETHING TO CELEBRATE

The eponymous designer of one of the world's most recogniseable and covetable brand of shoes is celebrating 20 years since the foundation of his company. 

And what better way to mark the occasion than that which he does best? The maestro has created a capsule collection which really sings the Louboutin spirit in force, something which is sure to delight fans both new and established.

The selection is killer, and the prices will also knock the majority of us fashion amateurs out of the ball park.

From what I see avoiding being sole-struck by this collection will be difficult, even if it is from afar...

Happy Anniversary! Now smileeeeee more ;)

Lanvin's 10 year Anniversary after-show party

What a wonderful mess of wonderful colours and themes... 

a great night.

Where the defile was held, leading into the party...

The derriere of the stage, complete with piano where Elbaz took to karaoke...

A small sample of one of the hundreds of sumptuous cakes ordered for the event...

Alexa Chung young style ambassador?!?

 Veteran Style Personality and Contemporary National Treasure (look how she shines...) Alexa Chung has secured another prestigious accolade to add to her growing collection. Through her new role as Young British Style Ambassador, awarded by the British Style Council, Alexa will support the Council as it continues to promote British fashion design talent to a global market.

This new timetable might not seem like a heavy ask for the Chung, 27. Amongst her more serious requirements the presenter/pro groupie/ex English student & style maven will continue to attend key events of the BFC's annual calendar, like London Fashion Week, the British Fashion Awards, LONDON show ROOMS and other events for Fashion 2012, organised by the BFC to promote fashion and cultural events during the Olympic year.

What does the Chung have to say of these new developments? "I always name London first when asked which city in the world has the best style. There's something so inherently rebellious about how people naturally style themselves. Brits aren't afraid to experiment or take risks with how they look, perhaps that's why London has always been home to the most dynamic and daring designers in the world.”

Yyyeah... since living in Paris I can agree what Chung means, but I'm appreciating more and more the national differences in mentality vis-a-vis style between the two nations (a post on this later). More than ever it seems as if the British style so celebrated by the award of this title is an exception of the Capital's style identity rather than a rule. The majority of Brits don't really care about looking good, they just wanna crack on with their shiz...

This award aims to celebrate those who do bother, however, and in choosing young Alexa as their Style Ambassador the British Fashion Council could not have picked a better choice to support this dynamic ethic.

Paris' Hidden Vintage Treasures

Paris is a city where you'd expect to find a lot of beautiful clothes... but for the discerning (and sometimes value-concerned) fashionista, the question of what remains when you step away from the delights of luxury stores on the Champs Elysees or high street hits on Rue de Rivoli can seem pretty daunting if you don't know where to look.

Luckily, as a lover of all things vintage who happens to have made Paris her home, I have made it my mission to scout a few of the best vintage stores around the capital for the perusal of the online community. In short the upshot is, if you're in Paris don't miss THESE...

1. TILT Vintage, 7 Rue de Rivoli, Paris

Looks can be deceiving- this shop may seem small from the vantage point of the Hotel de Ville across the road, but step inside and you will discover that it is bursting with fresh and desirable vintage pieces worthy of London's Brick Lane or Los Angeles' Rosebowl. 

 Providing all the classics such as fur coats and wool jumpers, as well as some funked-out accessories (like these trippy sunglasses) Tilt will not disappoint you (and probably won't break the bank neither).

The view from the back of the shop ;)

2. Richie's Vintage
56 rue Jules Vallès, Marche Aux Puces, 93400 Saint Ouen

This delightful store can be found hidden deep within the legendary March aux Puces de St. Ouen, in the North of Paris (19th Arrondissement, Metro Porte de Clignancourt). A rich and vibrant collection of international vintage, you can find a great selection from wonderful everyday bargains to that extra special evening something (see the bodice below which I had great trouble resisting)..... 

Monsieur Richie himself...!:)

3. Lina from Paris...rue Jules Vallès, Porte de Clignancourt, Paris

Facing Richie's but casting a completely different vibe to it's neighbour, this charming brocante-style vintage stall is really one of the highlights of the flea-market.
In the ten minutes I spent outside, I found Rykiel Homme, unique bijoux, felt hats garnished with old feathers, ball gowns worthy of Belle and authentic military wear, to name but a few things:)
Featuring a range of beautiful and unique clothes on aloof and characterful mannequins, this stall will reveal more to you the deeper you dig.

The proprietor, Lina, adds to the experience too...her unique look provides a refreshing balm to the typically tired Chic Parisians you tend to see stalking the streets of the capital...

Watchful mannequins preside over the vintage treasures.....

A dress worthy of the débuantes of the 20's... If I can't find an occasion to wear this in the next few months, I will consider myself a failure...:)

You wanna doctor's bag? Medicine not obligatory...



4. Les Merveilles de Babellou
Marché Paul Bert dans Le Marché aux Puces de St.Ouen, Stand 13, Alleé 1 et Stand 77, Alleé 6...

Step inside this well presented chest of top quality vintage treasures, ranging from Yves Saint Laurent, to Chanel, to Dior, and you will not be disappointed.
Evocative of a lost golden age of couture, the delights of Babellou will have you dreaming back to a time when Dior's New Look reigned supreme and sophistication could be found on every Parisian street.
Although nowadays the story is not so different, with specimens such as these on offer you could really create a magic wardrobe (provided you have the time and money.) As expected for true vintage pieces, these do not come cheap but as long-term investments they are worth it (though I think you'll need good luck in trying to choose...)

Quel beau chapeau!

....so with these in mind, happy vintage searching next time you're in Paris ;)

Harrods presents... Tom Ford

Tom Ford has always been an expert in creating the ultimately covetable, rich, lustrous and feminine garments that make appreciators of style everywhere go 'Ooooh' and sigh with longing.

So naturally since striking out on his own in the arena of Womenswear, Ford has not disappointed. Now the experience of one of his brilliant pieces can be yours... if you go exclusively to Harrods, where it has been announced that Ford's womenswear collection will be exclusively stocked in time for A/W 11. Chief amongst it's pieces is this red velvet cocktail dress which sets a standard for the mood of his collection.

Ford's A/W 11 catwalk show.

The event caused a storm for many reasons. Ford set a precedent for the seriousness of his offerings through through the usage of megawatt celebrities such as Beyonce, alongside seasoned and classic supermodels like Stella Tennant and Karen Elson. The comparative maturity of some of these models also gives us a clue to the kind of women Ford perhaps envisions wearing his creations- those of an ultimate confidence and femininity that comes more with experience than youth. 

A second element that Ford has added to heighten the exclusivity and hysteria surrounding the event is Ford's issuing of tickets on a strictly private basis. This is a system that he intends to maintain for the forseeable future, and through limiting press access the designer can ensure that interest in his offerings remains sky-high.

Model Karen Elson shows us how to wear this opulent blue fringed dress.

Candice Swanepoel has been chosen to front Ford's AW/11 Campaign. The refreshing usage of a girl with curves as opposed to a pin-thin andogynous figure reflects the inherent femininity of Ford's designs, as well as perhaps indicating his ideal client.

Now, as Autumn's London Fashion Week approaches, Ford is once again poised to unwrap a  womenswear interpretation for S/S 12 which will no doubt be as delightful and exotic as his last. Exclusivity for the event is still very high. It is easy to see how this man has gained the devotion and fervour of the fashion pack; always teasing, Ford constantly offers us glimpses of just what we want. He is perhaps one of fashion's most successful and pleasurable stripteases.